BOAT
DETAILING Reviving your boats glossy finish and
creating a factory-new appearance is surprisingly easy if you use the proper
techniques. Follow these steps for a long-lived durable shine.
Gelcoat,
the exterior finish on fiberglass boats, is a porous mix of polyester
resins and pigments that must be sealed from the damaging effects of ultra-violet
(UV) rays, salt, dirt and weather. Neglect it, and it becomes more porous,
resins oxidize and what remains is a faded, dull finish.
There is no
magic wipe-on, wipe-off remedy that removes oxidation and has a gloss
that lasts a lifetime. Achieving a like-new shine isnt very difficult,
and doesnt require a lot of extra work, especially if you invest
in quality materials and tools.
Do these four
steps to achieve a factory-new shine: wash to remove all contaminants;
mechanically repair the gelcoat by sanding or compounding; chemically
bond a protectant to the gelcoat to protect from further oxidation; and
maintain the surface to extend longevity of protective coating.
Figure 1 Effect of suns rays on gelcoat: (top) Smooth, flat surface
of new gelcoat reflects light just like a mirror; (bottom) UV breaks
down the molecules, rain washes out the minute pieces that break away,
creating a rough surface that reflects light at an angle and looks
dull.
STEP
1 Scrub the surface thoroughly with a quality
boat soap and water using a wash mitt or abrasive Scotch-Brite sponge.
Flush with freshwater. Dont use automotive soaps or household soaps,
which may strip the wax or damage the gelcoat. If the application instructions
recommend using a certain cleaner with a specific protectant (i.e. wax)
to obtain the desired finish, follow the recommendations.
Use the Oxidation Test to determine
condition of gelcoat. For surfaces in good condition that only require
rewaxing, go to Step 3. For oxidized gelcoat, wipe with a solvent to remove
silicone, wax or glaze buildup. Spray the surface with water, which should
wet out rather than bead if all finishes are successfully removed.
Two options for repairing oxidized gelcoat are:
fill the cavities with a quality wax or polish (hereafter referred to
as wax); or knock down the high spots, either by compounding
or sanding until the surface is flat, then follow with a filler. Just
applying a wax on heavily oxidized gelcoat is a short-term repair. The
surface has sheen when viewed from the side, but no deep luster, and rain
in time washes away the wax. Oxidized gelcoat, whether light or medium,
is best repaired by compounding or sanding to obtain a flat surface, filled
with a glaze (or wax if a one-step product), then followed with a wax.
OXIDATION
TEST (top): No Oxidation: Mirror image of ruler reflected in the gelcoat.
(middle) Light Oxidation: Bottle reflected in the gelcoat appears
cloudy, showing the label, but you cannot read the type. (bottom)
Heavy oxidation: Little or no reflection of bottle in the gelcoat.
BUFF
STUFF
Different buffing pads are used when compounding
and polishing. Wool pads are the most aggressive and the best for
cutting gelcoat. Some detailers prefer foam pads, black
for compounding, yellow for polishing. Use terrycloth pads (not
shown) for applying and removing wax.
When buffing a compound or glaze with a hand drill,
operating it at 2,000 rpm to 3,000 rpm generates more heat and gives
better cutting action.
Polisher/sander with 15cm (6") disk is run at 1,500 rpm. Keep
the pad as flat as possible with pressure tilted on the trailing edge.
A pad weighted on its leading edge tends to climb and take off and
get caught in hardware. When working on sharp corners, feather the
edges and always have the pad edge coming off the corner not into
the corner so it doesnt dig in.
Continually move the pad so it doesnt rotate in one place and
burn the gelcoat. Put a hand on the surface. If its
hot, its overworked.
Dressing Pads: Use a spur to clean pads before first
time use to remove loose fibers. Cleaning used pads regularly to remove
leftover sling doubles their life. Wear a mask when spurring a pad.
Store used pads in Ziplock bags so they dont become contaminated
with other grits or dirt, dust and other contaminants. And dont
mix your grits. Use one pad for the compounding, one for glazing (if
applying) and one for waxing.